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The MicroPreciis Support Page
Here you will find documents related to the Fixture Blocks along with some frequently asked questions and answers. If there is something you'd like to have answered which isn't here, please let me know. Also, I am trying to build a database of jigs and fixture plans which feature our blocks. If you'd like to make your plans available to the world, let me know and I can include them.- Andrew
Product Info
Fixture Block Instructions
Jig Plans
A simple Sacrificial Fence
FAQ
Do the Fixuture Blocks work on the BT3100? Yes. The rip fence extrusion is the same for the 3100 and the 3000. The blocks also work with the Sears version of the saw (Sears Item #00922811000).There seems to be excessive slop in the block when placed in the rip fence. Is that normal?
Yes, that is fine. The slop or play was actually designed into the block. This is because the first generation of fixture blocks were machined to tight tolerances but that led to many problems. The first was that the black plastic end cap at the end of the rip fence can be adjusted differently from user to user, so some people couldn't get there blocks into the t-slots at all.
The second reason, and I still kick myself for this, is that a tight fitting block + sawdust = 1 jammed block. Luckily I learned this on my own saw before anyone else had to take a hammer to there fixture blocks. It seems obvious enough, especially for router operations, that chips will get into the track and possibly jam the blocks. I haven't heard any complaints about this with the loose fitting blocks.
Finally, the loose fitting blocks mean that the jigs you make can have some flexibility. When building a jig you don't have to nail it down to the 0.001". If your design is a little off, it doesn't matter. The block allows for compensation. Here is how it works.
Let's say you made a sac fence, and you want it flush against the rip fence. First, slide the block into the rip fence and leave it loose. Then tighten the sac fence to the block. With the block still loose in the fence, push the sac fence against the rip fence so the two are perfectly parallel, then tighten down the block to the rip fence. The result is a perfectly flush fence. If your fence was a little weird and the fixture block ends up a little skewed in the track who cares? The important thing is that the fence is where it should be in the end.
Why are nylon tipped set screws used?
The nylon tips prevent damage to the extruded aluminum fence. Normal use will cause the nylon part to 'mushroom' out a little, but that is not a problem. You can use normal set screws but that will certainly damage the fence.
I can see the green nylon tips, but I can't push them through?
Sometime the set screw tops are hard to see in poor light. Trust me though, if you stick an 1/8th allen wrench into the top holes you will be able to turn those set screws. Pushing on them probably won't do the trick.
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